With the daylight lasting until well after 8pm now, we were excited for the opportunity to get in some outdoor after work climbing. It is refreshing to unwind from the stressful or tedious work day by taking in some fresh air and letting the power of nature recharge you. It was soothing to be among the trees again and feeling the natural sunlight on our skin.
For us, Diamond Ledges works well as an after work destination. It is close by, has an easy approach, and is simple to set up top ropes for (there are no bolts for sport climbing). The walls are a decent height of about 30 or 40 ft tall, and the climbing is fun. We were able to get on a 5.7 warm up that felt much more fun than you’d imagine from the bottom. It was filled with dynamic, reachy moves to fantastic jugs and large quartz crystals. At the top, there is a flake that makes for a fun, simple lay back.
We tried to do a 5.11 but after the rope slipped from the anchor twice (not while anyone was on it, but merely during set up) we took it as a sign to try out the boulder problems instead. This is not a problem I believe others would be likely to have, but simply poor luck.
The boulder problems are all fairly simple, but not frequently climbed. Therefore, they are pretty dirty and in need of a brushing. They also have no helpful chalk to show beta. There is a V3 face climb that is up quartz crystals and looks aesthetic, but is fairly tricky. There are also several slab routes that are actually decently juggy and have nice cracks to follow.
There are a nice amount of climbs at Diamond Ledges for after work climbing or for a small day trip. The climbs are fun, interesting, and nice to look at with the jutting quartz of different hues. It is a cool spot to be close to, and the times we have gone, we haven’t seen anyone else. It is also a nice spot for some solitude.
There are plenty of trees to make anchors from. A few warnings about the area include the fact that the rock is pretty sharp and therefore, you want to be careful with your anchors. We used additional rope to set the anchors lower (over the edge) to help prevent the rubbing of rope against rock which could cut it. Another warning is not to try bolting the area. Bolts have been and probably will continue to be chopped. In fact, there are now even signs with that warning.
If you want to check out the area, be okay with top roping or possibly trad climbing. It is not a big area that will become a world class destination, but it is a sweet little local crag. I would definitely recommend people in the CT area check out the fun routes that it holds. If you were to travel from afar, you could be disappointed because it is on the smaller side and some of the climbs are dirty from not being climbed all that often. I enjoyed my time there and the others who climb there all have favorable feedback as well.
Sorry for not having any pictures. Forgot the camera and the light was a bit dim as it was closer to night anyway.